Northern Ireland

Northern Ireland holds a tradition of Links Golf which is hard to beat. On a recent tour of 8 courses on the rugged coastline we played some of the best courses in all of Ireland, culminating with the magnificent Royal County Down, undoubtedly one of the finest in the world. Without doubt it is a difficult golf course, requiring precision drives and excellent iron play, but there is another reason it is regularly ranked in the top 5 courses in the world. It is not the glorious setting, abutting the Irish Sea, which is visible from many holes, nor the backdrop of the Mountains of Morne which are visible everywhere. Neither is it the perfect condition of the course, or the gorse, heather and deep bunkers bearded with marram grass. Nor is it the enormous sand dune christened the Matterhorn, or the friendly starter, or the charming caddies, or the ever present wind. It’s lasting fame ultimately stands on its outstanding design, which is demonstrated in the fairness of every hole, without tricks or gimmicks. Old Tom Morris, with later modifications by Harry Colt, have created the truest test of golf anywhere in the world.

Despite the regal supremacy of County Down, some of our group picked Ardglass as their favourite, just half an hour up the coast from its Royal neighbour. Ardglass, at £35 and about one-fifth the cost of County Down, boasts wonderful ocean views on at least 7 holes, a 14th Century castle as it’s clubhouse, as well as outstanding food, much of it sourced from the adjoining fishing port. The championship Dunluce Links of Royal Portrush are perhaps the toughest test of golf in all of Ireland, and the only Irish venue to host the Open Championship, in 1951. However, do not miss the other 18 holes of the Valley course, very popular with the members and many ladies. It is not as unforgiving as the Dunluce, but very enjoyable indeed and with many great holes. The membership has produced many fine golfers over the years including the likes of Darren Clarke, Padraig Harrington and Graeme McDowell, all world class champions and Ryder Cup stars. The late Fred Daly, born and bred in Portrush had been the only Irishman to win The Open, in 1947, until Harrington’s achievements 60 years later. It is not surprising that McDowell took this year’s honours at the U.S. Open at Pebble Beach, when one compares the degree of difficulty of Pebble Beach and Portrush, notably in the hazhards of sand, grass, wind and firm greens.

On a general point, true of many links courses, make sure you have at least one caddie in your group, not just because they will point you in the right direction on blind shots. They impart indispensable knowledge that will significantly increase your enjoyment of the day and also seem to be able to find a ball hit into any kind of horrendous terrain. Of course, the “craic” will often keep you entertained even if your golf is a struggle. Caddies range in price from £25 to £35 plus tip, and it is common for other members of the group to pitch in £5 or £10 each as the caddies will often work just as hard for these players as for the bag they carry.

Food has improved significantly over the years, but in such a sparsely populated country, there are still few great dining spots. When you do find a good restaurant, the lamb, fish and beef are likely to be exceptional, and very local. At Ardglass, for example, the adjoining harbour has an active fishing fleet and the food in the clubhouse is outstanding. Try the cream free fish chowder or haddock fishcakes which are superb. More upmarket, though located behind a very modest frontage, the sleek and modern Brown’s restaurant in Derry is truly superb. If you need to find it, ask for “Brian’s”, which more closely resembles the enjoyable patois of Northern Ireland. For a genuine local pub experience, stop at Frank Owens in Limavady, in the same family since 1862, and even if you didn’t bring your own bagpiper, as we did, you will be welcomed with the best Guinness around. As you would expect in this friendly country, we were introduced to the comforts of this establishment by our caddy from Castlerock, a retired bank manager who probably spent his entire caddie fee buying us drinks. Accommodation of high standards are not commonplace. Whether you choose the ubiquitous B&B, which can be very hit and miss, or prefer a traditional hotel, you will most often be given a substantial breakfast to send you on your way. If you want to play all the classic links on the Northern Coast and into Donegal, something located around Londonderry is ideal, and the Everglades Hotel (about £90/night) is your best choice. Staying in Derry will limit your travel time to around an hour, whatever the traffic. Playing just Castlerock, Portstewart and Portrush, the Ramada and Adelphi Hotels in the latter town are perfect. Moving east, for Ardglass and Royal County Down, you must stretch the budget and enjoy the classic 5* Slieve Donard Hotel. With magnificent views of the mountains of Morne, as well as a glorious ocean side location, you have the added luxury of leaving the back of this old railway hotel and walking up a private path directly to Royal County Down itself.