England’s Atlantic Links of Devon & Cornwall
One of the pleasures of travelling the world to play golf is the abundance of areas that have outstanding golf courses and few visitors. I have mentioned some of these in the past, but surely some of the greatest courses in the United Kingdom are in a place that few visitors from outside the country can probably find on a map. The south west of England features the two rugged and beautiful counties of Devon and Cornwall on a coastline once famous for its pirates, fishing and distinct dialect but better known now for its sandy beaches, surfing, golf, and beautiful countryside.
The 4 hour drive from London takes you past the spectacular site of Stonehenge which is well worth a stop to contemplate these 4000 year old megaliths. Your first destination should be the classic whitewashed Saunton Sands hotel. Situated atop a bluff, it overlooks a long sandy beach and the 36 links holes of the Saunton Sands Golf course, built amongst the tidal dunes that line the Bristol Channel. This is truly rugged golf, featuring plenty of blind shots and ever changing weather. The East course is the longer and more challenging of the two courses at some 6800 yards, but plenty of roll on the sandy fairways usually make for shorter approaches than you would expect. The finishing hole is a sharp dog leg right with an elevated green directly in front of the clubhouse and patio. Balls have been known to finish on dinner plates or inside a pint of beer. The West course is very playable and a little shorter, though the greens are very tricky indeed, and many resemble upturned soup bowls.
Across the estuary is Royal North Devon, perhaps the oldest golf club in the U.K., or more commonly known as ‘Westward Ho’, established in 1864 on a beautiful piece of land astride the sea. There is real golf history here, and JH Taylor served his apprenticeship at RND before going on to win 5 British Opens. You cannot help but love this wild golf course which you must share with sheep, goats, horses and dog walkers. The greens are discreetly roped off from four legged interlopers, but you will occasionally have to wave your four iron at a flock of sheep if you wish to play through.
From here, make your way down the coast to the town of Rock, past smugglers coves, fishing villages and the spectacular cliffs of Hartland Point, driving through vast expanses of yellow gorse and fields of grass which are perfect for a picnic or an afternoon doze. In Rock, you will find the most elegant of accommodation at the St. Enodoc Hotel, a stunning surprise you would expect in Knightsbridge and not in a seaside hotel. Completely renovated in a modern design of slate and steel, you can walk to what I consider the most spectacular looking golf course in the U.K., the St. Enodoc Club, one of James Braid’s finest layouts. Built amongst sand dunes beside the Camel river estuary, and one of the driest places in the UK, the club welcomes visitors with the championship 18 hole Church course, and a delightful family friendly second 18 holes of the Holywell course. The Church course may seem short at 6500 yards, but it is a very challenging par 69 with just two Par 5s. Every single hole is magnificent, requiring good driving, and very thoughtful play. It is simply not enough to calculate distance and pull a club from your bag. You must choose your line carefully, you must play for slope and wind, you must carefully navigate blind shots, and foremost, you must settle for bogey after a mistake or risk a big score. Equally, you must take into account elevation changes, and putt well on greens that have considerable grain and are never, ever flat.
The back 9 at St. Enodoc features a sunken 12thC church which in subsequent centuries was covered by drifting sand which reached the foot of the spire. A vicar was lowered through the roof to consecrate the church on an annual basis, but in the 19thC much of the sand was removed and services restored. The church was made famous by the poet laureate John Betjeman who lies in the graveyard.
Across the estuary, you will find the trendy fishing port of Padstow, complete with it’s own celebrity chef, Rick Stein, who owns many restaurants and a cooking school by the river. You can stay at the old Victorian railway hotel, the Metropole, which is very affordable at around £100 per night and located right in the heart of town, or one of many seaside B&B’s. There are also numerous holiday homes to let, particularly in Polzeath which offers an enormous sandy beach and excellent surfing for all ages.
Trevose golf club is a wonderful seaside links just south of Padstow and is a very good Harry Colt course with a huge variety of golf holes and very difficult greens. Bunkering is classic Colt and you will find several holes which have sentries of cross bunkering which you must carefully negotiate. The dunes play a big part on the ocean side holes at three and four, but birdies are makeable at the signature 4th par 5, provided the wind is not against. Although it has a great holiday feel to it, and casual shorts are de rigeur, Trevose held the English Amateur in 2008 and it is every bit a championship layout.
St. Mellion is not far from the area and this well known 36 hole facility features a fine Nicklaus course which was his first creation in the UK.
The courses generally in the region feature a great deal of gorse and long marram grass and you can expect wind to be a big factor in your play. Cost varies by weekday and weekend but you can expect to pay between £50 and £80 per round.
Driving in this area should be treated with caution as many roads are very narrow and hedgerows block your field of vision. Tractors and farm equipment often take up the entire width of the road and you should expect to pull over in small lay-bys to allow traffic to pass.